Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
